Day Seven – Austria and Germany

We didn’t sleep all that well last night due to very high winds up on the valley side, I actually got out the tent in the middle of the night to make sure the bike hadn’t been blown over it was that bad!

The mighty Triumph stood up to the alpine winds

The weather was still windy but now the rain had moved in again along with a lot of low cloud, not what you want when your about to pack away the tent and gear.

Fortunately we didn’t plan on covering too many miles today, this allowed us to have a slightly later start and relax a bit more during the morning. The camp site had really good facilities in one of the barns, you could see everything had been hand crafted out of local wood from doors down to the little door latches etc. It was nice to spend some time having a long hot shower and not have to get changed back in the cold tent, as there was nobody else around you could just get dried and dressed in the building instead.

Low clouds and showers all morning

Low clouds and showers all morning

The rain never did stop completely so we had to bite the bullet and put everything away damp, not for the first time either. We opted to not have breakfast and find somewhere to eat in Salzburg, Austria which was only an hour away.

Low clouds and showers all morning
Who said bike boots and shorts don’t go, this is one of my favourite clothing combos!

Low clouds and showers all morning

Low clouds and showers all morning

Low clouds and showers all morning

Low clouds and showers all morning

Low clouds and showers all morning

The ride to Salzburg was pleasant although rather chilly, taking in the typical Austrian winding roads through the valleys and mountains before ending up on the main road in to Salzburg. We parked up and went for a stroll about the town, which has an incredible river running straight through the middle and plenty of immaculate little streets and shops to investigate. Salzburg had a very “Alpine” feel to it, which you can see in some of the photos below. I also never took my thermal winter gloves off the whole time I was here it was that cold!

Salzburg, Austria was beautiful

Salzburg, Austria was beautiful

Salzburg, Austria was beautiful

Salzburg, Austria was beautiful

Salzburg, Austria was beautiful

We stopped in a cafe for some breakfast, which consisted of some form of bread roll with marmalade and I had a huge cup of some strange tea, to this day I’m still not really sure what it was haha.

Salzburg, Austria was beautiful

Salzburg, Austria was beautiful

Part of this trip included trying the local food where possible, it would be rude to come to Austria and not eat proper Austrian apple strudel! Which turned out to be harder than one might expect, we did however find a really nice local bakery selling freshly baked apple strudel, much to Kelly’s delight.

proper Austrian apple strudel

After finishing the strudel we made our way back to the bike for our next journey, we were now leaving Austria and making our way to Munich, Germany.

This ride took us about two hours, mostly on motorways (as you would expect in Germany) which are not very exciting but serve a purpose. As we neared Munich we came to some services, needing some fuel for the bike and a snack for ourself we opted to pull in and have a break.

German McDonalds

German McDonalds

German McDonalds

We both had Happy Meals and ended up with two children’s books in German, both of which I think made it all the way back to the UK unharmed!

Back on the road again and heading for our Munich camp site, whilst planning the trip it wasn’t until we started looking for a camp site in Munich that we found out Oktoberfest was on whilst we were here, so as you can imagine everywhere was fully booked and the whole process was rather chaotic!

Once we got to the camp site we were greeted with a sea of tents as far as the eye could see and more Australians than you might find in Australia! I can tell you now they certainly know how to drink!

sea of tents as far as the eye could see

sea of tents as far as the eye could see

sea of tents as far as the eye could see

Signed in to the camp site we headed in to the sea of tents to find a pitch, and not before we were moved on by a member of security on a scooter who took us to a couple of free pitches, they seemed “quiet” enough so we pitched up the tent.

Our Triumph parked on sea of tents as far as the eye could see

Not before long an English chap on a Suzuki V-Strom arrived, he pitched up next to us and was telling us a few stories. He wasn’t here for the drinking but to visit the grave of a deceased friend.

English chap on a Suzuki V-Strom

We were planning on getting the bus to the nearest train station, then a train in to the city center. This proved easy as you just had to follow the loud drunk Australians who were all heading there as well. Once at the train station we had a bit of a game trying to buy tickets, as you would expect all the machines were in German and there was no ticket office as such. Kelly got what she though to be the correct ticket, I said bollocks to it and didn’t bother getting a ticket, I doubt the sea of pissed Australians had tickets either!

After making it to the city center and getting off at the right station, we just followed the sea of drunk people who all seemed to know where the beer tents were.
I say tents, they were bigger than most of the pubs in England and looked like proper buildings! Oh and of course it was raining again.

countless amount of beer tents and hundreds of fair ground rides

countless amount of beer tents and hundreds of fair ground rides

countless amount of beer tents and hundreds of fair ground rides

countless amount of beer tents and hundreds of fair ground rides

countless amount of beer tents and hundreds of fair ground rides

It wasn’t how I expected it to be, there were countless beer tents and hundreds of fair ground rides and stalls.

By now we were both wet and hungry so we grabbed some food, this being Germany we both opted for curry wurst which was surprisingly nice. We then tried to get in one of the beer tents, which is actually stupidly difficult unless you were German or a lairy hammered Australian dressed in lederhosen. We did however eventually manage to get it, I would say the Germans were the most unfriendly people we met on the whole trip and to be honest we were not really surprised by it. The tents were really impressive inside, although not being German it was impossible to get a drink so we promptly left!

Inside one of the huge beer tents

We thought it may be easier to get a beer in one of the regular pubs in town, but still got turned away at the door as it appeared all the Germans book the tables in advanced, I would compare it to wandering in to a British pub on Christmas day! We did however manage to sneak in the back entrance, which was not as well guarded as the front. A quick trip to the loo and we both headed for a bar towards the back of the pub, we both felt like we shouldn’t have been in there as it had a “members only” feel about it, still we both managed to have a beer and grab seat!

Inside one of the huge beer tents

The place soon started to fill up so we left and headed back in to the main center where all the tents were, Kelly really wanted a Nutella crepe and made it our mission to find a stall selling them, which again proved difficult and took a hell of a lot of walking before getting one, which wasn’t much fun in my soggy cheapy Primark shoes.

With the time now getting on we followed the drunk crowd back to the train station, not before grabbing a coke from a little shop situated inside a deserted shopping center. After the short journey on the train we found ourselves with a different bunch of drunk Australians, who we got the bus back to the camp site with.
Back at the camp site we had a few beers accompanied with some nuts in the bar which oddly enough was the most sane place at the camp site!
With it now getting late we headed back to the tent for some sleep, although this camp site was far from a place where you could get a decent nights sleep, loud thumping music coming from the different party tents around the site went on for most of the night, fortunately those couple of beers helped put me to sleep without too much of an issue.

Day Six – Italy and Austria

We woke to a beautiful sunny morning in Venice, Italy. It was already nice and warm even at 08:00 in the morning, this made a pleasant change when compared with the weather we had over the previous few days. Whilst cooking up a bit of breakfast I thought I would make the most of it and have a little bask in the sun.

Kevin basking in the sun

I was nicknamed “The tent goblin” by Kelly, this position was one that I found myself in on several occasions throughout the trip, who doesn’t like a bit of early morning sun!

The Triumph in the sun with the clothes drying

We were soon showered and then started to pack the gear away again, fortunately the sun dried most of our damp clothes, by this time though all of the clean clothes were in one pannier, the rest were in other which was then named “The Stinky Pannier” and for damn good reason!

Back on the road we were now heading to our last destination in Italy, this being Udine. Fortunately this first journey of the day wasn’t too long, taking about one and half hours. After arriving in Udine, Italy We eventually found somewhere to park the bike, then headed off for a wander to find some lunch which would prove slightly tricky…

As you can see the bike was slowly acquiring more and more gear stuffed under the cargo net strapped on to the top box.

Lots of stuff finding it's way under the cargo net

After a bit of a walk around the town and giving our legs a stretch we set off to find some lunch. We visited the usual supermarkets but nothing really took our fancy, most of the food wasn’t really food to eat on the go and was mostly proper dinner meals. We eventually found a lovely little family run bakery, but of course this not being a touristy part of Italy nobody spoke a word of English! Kelly managed to order us some lunch (her Italian was better than mine) although I wasn’t sure if I got what I ordered, as I asked for a Frankfurer Roll which was on the menu and got this.

All is not what it seems

What appeared to be a fairly normal roll, actually did turn out to contain the frankfurters Kelly ordered! I can honestly say I was surprised when I took my first bite and found this!

All is not what it seems

They bake the sausages in the roll, how very clever! Never seen anything like it before, was certainly very tasty.

We sat and ate our lunch in lovely floral gardens, with a very peaceful river flowing quietly in the background.

Really nice and relaxing

Really nice and relaxing

Really nice and relaxing

Really nice and relaxing river

Really nice and relaxing

Shortly after finishing lunch it started to rain, we made a quick dash back to the bike seeking shelter under the trees along the way. Fortunately the rain quickly past, allowing us to set of in the dry. We were now leaving Italy and finally heading to Autria, or more precisely our camp-site in Taxenbach, Austria. This leg of the journey was going to take at least three hours and would involve crossing one of the highest peaks in the Alps (which at the time of planning the trip I failed to notice).

After about an hour on the bike and just before making our assent in to the Alps we stopped for a quick toilet break at a rather deserted shopping centre.

Quick toilet stop

At this point the dark clouds really started to close in and not before long the heavens opened!

Dark clouds really started to close in

Dark clouds really started to close in

The ride up through the base of the Alps was fantastic, the roads were switchback hairpin after hairpin clinging on to the side of the mountain. Unfortunately it rained hard and constantly, giving us a good drenching. When the rain eventually stopped I pulled in, cleaned my visor and took a few photos.

Base of the Alps

Base of the Alps

Base of the Alps

Base of the Alps

Base of the Alps

Base of the Alps

Base of the Alps

Base of the Alps

Shortly after the above photos we left Italy and entered Austria. The scenery opened up and the road snacked across a nice flat plane, which gave us a nice opportunity for a few more photos.

Alps, Austria

Alps, Austria

Alps, Austria

Having spent a few hours in the saddle without any lunch We stopped in a small town for coffee and cake, this being the first time we had to communicate with anybody neither of us was sure on the language, I think we agreed to speak in German in the end which they understood so I assume this was correct.

Back on the bike and the flowing roads continues for mile after mile, going past endless biker cafes and B&B. After a short assent we came across a little town where we stopped for a quick toilet break and I bumped in to an America guy who started chatting about what we were doing and about my Triumph (it appears Americans really like Triumphs). Back on the road again and not before long we came to a toll section, it turned out that the route we had planned took us through a huge national park high up in the Alps crossing one of the highest peaks! After stumping up about 22 Euros to get through the tolls and being warned several times to ride really slowly through the park as they were suffering with some heavy winds on the peaks, we were back on our way.

It’s safe to say the lady in the toll kiosk wasn’t exaggerating, it was seriously windy which isn’t what you want on a fully loaded tourer riding hairpin roads clinging on to the edge of a mountain with no real safety barriers! After a while we had to stop as it was so cold I could no longer feel my hands and opted to put my winter gloves on. We managed to grab a couple of photos before slowly riding back off round the mountain.

Seriously cold up on the mountain top

Seriously cold up on the mountain top

Seriously cold up on the mountain top

There was a lot of snow about up on the peaks but with the heavy wind I decided not to stop until we were off the mountain, which felt like it took an eternity! If the weather was dry and sunny it would be a great place to really let your hair down and find the bikes limits. I found this video of somebody else taking near enough the same route we took.

GrossGlockner Hochalpenstrasse

After making it safely to the bottom and discovering that burning brake pads smell the same as a burning clutch. By now we were both cold tired and very hungry oh and to top it all off the sun decided to come out, better late than never I guess! Our next challenge was to find the camp site, a quick stop to get fuel we were nearing our destination, on the way we stopped at a supermarket to get some food for dinner and breakfast. Following the GPS we found ourselves going along a very steep road up the side of the valley, which not before long turned in to a dirt road. I was convinced that we were going somewhere completely random and that the camp site wouldn’t be clung to the valley side, but lo and behold it was.

This was a slightly odd camp site as there was nobody around and it appeared to be in the grounds of two huge Austria houses. We set up camp as it was now starting to get a little dark. The views up here were amazing and it was so peaceful and quiet, a beautiful place to call home.

Setting up camp

Setting up camp

Setting up camp

Setting up camp

Setting up camp

After a while a German chap arrive in a converted van/camper, after having a chat with him it turned out he had driven from Munich to get away from the madness that is Oktoberfest, which is where we were planning to head next. He was telling us about a trip he took over to the UK in the 1970’s and how he had visited all of the main towns and cities, turned out this German chap had seen a lot more of the UK that we have haha, he was also a little confused as to who was in charge of the camp site and where he could pay for his pitch.

Nobody else did appear that evening, we managed to find the camping shower/toilet facilities in a big converted barn next to the houses, oddly the garage doors and main door to the house were all open but nobody was home. I can only assume they don’t have a problem with crime like we do here in the UK.

After a tiring day on the road it was nice to have a hot dinner, we opted to have our emergency camping food with some sausages we bought in the super market earlier and of course a nice can of lager or two.